![]() ![]() The battery is the key component in damping and absorbing those harmful voltage spikes, but it loses its ability to do that as it ages and the lead flakes off the plates. ![]() If it is determined the generator needs to be replaced, you must replace the battery at the same time unless it is less than about two years old. You can't do that any other way except to draw conclusions from the symptoms you have. Those two tests will identify a bad diode. Those will measure full-load output current and ripple voltage. The second half of the tests requires a professional load tester. The battery will have to make up the difference until it slowly runs down.Īlso with one bad diode, one phase of the three-phase output will be lost, and that results in very high "ripple" voltage. 30 amps from the common 90 amp generator is not sufficient to meet the needs of the electrical system under all conditions. When one of the six diodes fails, all you'll be able to get is exactly one third of the generator's design value for current, but battery voltage will usually still be okay. With GM's systems though that is not sufficient. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts with the engine running. ![]() Normally you can do the first half of testing the charging system by measuring the battery voltage with an inexpensive digital voltmeter. Due to their design, they develop huge voltage spikes that can destroy the internal diodes and voltage regulator, and can interfere with computer sensor signals. GM has had a real common problem with their generators that were redesigned for the 1987 model year. Lets start with the two most common symptoms, the drained battery and the flickering head lights. What might still be the problem? Im scratching my head on this one.įorget the fuses because this is an intermittent problem that doesn't act up all the time. Also, both bulbs have been replaced with brand new ones. My regular headlights still dont work, but high beams work. But when I disengage the parking brake, My drl relay clicks, my DRL flickers on and than stays off, my DRL symbol on dash flickers on than stays off, then the service engine light turns on. So when I start the car, everything is the way is supposed to be. I have already replaced my DRL relay, cleaned and hard wired the grounds under the battery box, and cleaned and hardwired the junction box that normally gets corroded under the battery box (even though it wasn't that bad). So my daytime running lamps and normal headlights stopped working. When I start the car up and leave the day time running lights on they flash on and off about 15 times and then the service light goes on on my dash. When I switch back to the low beams they work fine. The High beam light on the dash lights up, but no high beams. When I switch from my low beam head lights to the high beams the head lights go completely out. Electrical problem 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 107000 miles ![]()
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